The fresh cranberry season runs from October to January, which almost certainly accounts for its popularity as a Christmas ingredient. However the true beauty of the cranberry lies in its versatility: because of its refreshing tartness, it lends itself to both sweet and savoury dishes.

Long before the pilgrims settled in the New World, the cranberry was an important ingredient in Indian life. Culinary uses aside, the Indians brewed it for its powerful medicinal properties, using it to draw poison from arrow wounds. Today, cranberry juice is widely recognised as an effective treatment for cystitis.

The Indians presented the berries as gifts to the pilgrims and it is believed that cranberries were included in the first Thanksgiving Feast in 1621.

The cranberry has been variously known as 'Sassamanesh', 'Ibim', 'Atoquea' and the symbol of peace, it eventually arrived at its present name because the pilgrims thought the pink cranberry blossom resembled the heads of cranes; hence the name 'crane berry' later contracted to 'cranberry'.

Cranberries grow in carefully cleared bogs that are covered with several inches of sand and scored by a system of ditches that transport water to the vines during dry spells. Water is also used to cover the cranberries with a protective layer of insulating ice during the dormant winter period.

The cranberry harvest is a spectacular sight, producing lakes of vivid red berries. After the harvest the berries are air-lifted away to avoid damaging the vines.

Cranberries are an extremely nutritious fruit: each 100g of cranberries contains only 52 calories yet is rich in potassium. They may be stored in the refrigerator for up to one month and will last up to nine months in the freezer with no detriment to their colour or flavour.

Cranberry chutney adds a delicious festive note to all kinds of foods like nut roast and roasted vegetables.

1lb/450g cranberries, fresh or frozen
1¼lb/550g onions, peeled and finely chopped
1lb/450g tomatoes, peeled and sliced
1½lb/675g cooking apples, cored and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1pt/600ml ready-spiced malt vinegar
1 level tsp ground ginger
2 level tsp salt
1½lb/675g demerara sugar

1. Place the cranberries in a preserving pan or large saucepan with the onions, tomatoes, apples, garlic and vinegar. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the fruit is well broken down.

2. Add the ginger, salt and sugar and stir continuously until dissolved. Simmer uncovered for about 1½ hours, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking, until thick and syrupy

3. Pour into warmed jars and cover at once with waxed discs and a vinegar-proof cover. Cool and label. Store in a cool dry place for 2-4 weeks before use.